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The country of Chile has one of the most diverse
landscapes in all of South
America . The north of Chile,
one of the driest areas in the world,
has the Atacama Desert
which contains places where rainfall has never been
recorded.
In the far south lies the extremely rainy Strait of Magellan,
next to Tierra del Fuego. The mid-section of Chile
is a mix of desert in
the north and lakes, pine forests,
and volcanoes in the south.
The Southern tip of Chile is a region of fjords and islands, as you head south from Puerto Montt. There is no road that traverses the whole length of the region, and coming south from Puerto Montt, your must take a boat or a plane for almost 1000 km to Puerto Natales, crossing over waterways and extensive glacier fields. From Puerto Natales, your can reach Punta Arenas, the southern-most tip of Chile, in about 6-8 hours via a dirt road. Actually, it's a crushed gravel road and one must travel at about 30-40 mph to avoid kicking up the rocks at passing cars. Expect to see various animals along the way, such as guanacos, flamingos, ostriches, and sheep among other things. Some travelers bound for Tierra del Fuego and the Straits of Magellan travel across the border at Bariloche in Argentina and drive for 25-30 hours across the pampas.
[What to do][Where
to stay] [Where to eat
What to do in Chilean Patagonia
Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas, a city that dates back to 1848, is a small port city of avenues, squares, and various monuments of its first colonizers. It is the capital of Magallanes and has 120,000 inhabitants. There are many places to visit here and there are several interesting museums. Located on the Plaza de Armas is the 100 year old palace of Sara Braun, whose materials were shipped entirely from Europe. Sara was the wife of Jose Noqueira, one of the first and most famous livestock pioneers in the beginnings of the colonization of Punta Arenas. Another worthwhile place to visit is the Museo Regional de Magallanes, a mansion preserved and serving as a museum for regional history. Here you'll see relics and handicrafts from the native cultures: Yanganes, Onas, and Alacalufes.
Punta Arenas has 19 hours of daylight during the South American summer, so you'll have plenty of time to explore. Expect the temperature to be around the 60-70 degree range from December to February.
From Punta Arenas, you can tour to Tierra del Fuego and Antarctica via the daily ferry across the straits of Magellan. The Trip to Porvenir in Tierra del Fuego lasts about 2.5 hours.
Tierra del Fuego
A land of grayness and forest, most days are windy, drizzly and cold. The first explorer here was the Portuguese Fernando Magellan, who discovered the area in 1520 as he was trying to cross from east to west across a narrow waterway now know as the Straits of Magellan. The land was named Tierra del Fuego meaning "Land of Fire", and the general region was named Patagonia after the local indian tribe, the "Patagones" or big feet.
The most notable things to see here are the small town of Porvenir (6000), see the museum of Tierra del Fuego, and then drive to the Tierra del Fuego National Park, or the the Penguin National Park.
Penguin Watching
The best place to mingle with the penguins is the Penguin caves (La Pinguinera) north of Punta Arenas. You drive about 30 miles north, and then turn left on a coastal road to the Pecket mine. Its a little confusing to find, as the road makes lots of winding turns around the mine area, but there are little signs pointing the way if you watch. When you arrive at the Pinguinera, they will provide you with a map for about $2.00. Walk out as far as you can go around the penguin caves (actually mounds with holes in the ground). You will be able to see thousands of these birds coming and going. If you stand still they will walk around you, but in general they will try to avoid you. A fascinating sight is the "changing of the guards", as the female penguins return from the sea at once after a day of catching brine to feed the young. They walk around the caves finding their mates, so as to switch places with them. The males then line up and march into the sea to do their part. How these penguins can find their mates among the thousands that you see is a great mystery.
Torres del Paine
The Torres del Paine National Park is situated in the heart of Chilean
Patagonia, about 300 miles north of the capital of Magallanes, Punta Arenas.
The park covers over 600,000 acres, and includes a variety of natural flora
and fauna. You'll see granite towers rising from the golden grasslands
to heights of above 7000 feet, snow capped mountains year round, pristine
blue lakes, and glaciers. There is plenty of wildlife and you don't need
to look hard to find it, the park is loaded with guanacos (a member of
the camel family), condors, and flamingos. A hikers dream, the park contains
lots of trails, with the main trail around the park taking a week or so.
Most people that go to the park are backpackers, but there are also two
very excellent places to stay depending on your tastes. The Hosteria Pehoe
and Explora Lodge are listed below in the "places to stay" section.
For a general guide to a 5-6 day hike through the park, visit the "Let's
Tour" Section of this site or simply
[What to do]
Where to stay in Chilean Patagonia
In the park:
****Explora Lodge - This first class lodge recently opened and includes 30 rooms, and suites, all with incredible views of the mountains. It's a spectacular place with a bar, restaurant, hot tub, and there are guides to plan your day and lead you around. Not for the backpacker, this is the "Stein Ericcson" Lodge of Patagonia. Tel: Santiago 562-208-0664 In the park 562 699-2922
*** Hosteria Pehoe - A semi-rustic lodge of 35 rooms, you should try to book space before you arrive. The lodge is situated on a small island at the foot of the Torres, and there is a small footbridge that crosses the water leading to the Hoteria. There is a restaurant which serves meals all day. The food is not that great, but in this remote location, who can complain. Tel: Santiago 235-0252 Punta Arenas 244-506
In Punta Arenas
***Hotel Finis Terrae - This brand new hotel is the best value in town. The rooms are clean and well furnished, it's on the main plaza, and has a good restaurant on the roof with a view of Tierra del Fuego. Av Colon 766, Tel: 228-200
In Puerta Natales
$$$$Hotel CostAustralis
This is a new hotel in Puerto Natales, overlooking the Seno Ultima Esperanza
( Last Hope Sound), a slight detour on the way from Punta Arenas to Torres
del Paine. It has excellent rooms, and a great restaurant with a panoramic
view of the water. It's located on the waterfront at Calle Pedro Montt.
[What to do][Where
to stay]
Where to eat in Chilean Patagonia
Restaurant Finis Terrae
A good restaurant on the roof of the Hotel by the same name, with a view of Tierra del Fuego. Av Colon 766, Tel: 228-200
Sotitos
A great place for local Chilean seafood such as centolla (crab), Av. O'Higgins, 1138
CostAustralis
There is a new hotel in Puerto Natales, overlooking the Seno Ultima
Esperanza ( Last Hope Sound), a slight detour on the way from Punta Arenas
to Torres del Paine. It has an excellent restaurant with a panoramic view
of the water, and excellent fresh seafood. It's located on the waterfront
at Calle Pedro Montt.
[What to do][Where
to stay]
Due to its geographic location, Santiago is one of the few capital cities
in the world which has easy access both to ski slopes
-just 50 kms. away-, and beaches, 100 kms. away. The majestic Andean Mountain
Range can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. Santiago is a modern
city by comparison to other South American cities, yet has maintained some
interesting Spanish
colonial architecture in pockets of the city. Life in Santiago is very
relaxed and organized, and the American traveler will feel right at home
here. It is one of the safest cities in the world and there are many fine
parks to escape from the city life. The public transportation system
is excellent; they even have a fairly new underground Metro
system. Numerous small villages located in the countryside around Santiago
allow you to relax and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of countrylife.
You can also visit the nearby vineyards and try the delicious and inexpensive
Chilean wines.
Santa Lucia
The Santa Lucia Hill in the city center is an important historic landmark. It was here, at the foot of this hill that Spanish Conquistador Pedro de Valdivia founded the city of Santiago on February 12th, 1541. He planned the city according to the traditional Spanish checkerboard layout which is still evident in the downtown area today.
Plaza de Armas
Today, the Plaza de Armas with its colorful gardens is very different
to what it was many years ago but the buildings that surround it bring
back many memories. The Metropolitan Cathedral, on the western side of
the plaza, stands on the same spot where the first church in Santiago was
once built; to the north are three important buildings: the Post Office,
the National Museum of History and the Town hall of Santiago.
La Moneda (Presidential Palace) -
Plaza de la Constitucion.
Central Market-Mapocho Station
Catholic Univerty`s Main Campus
Artisan Village of Los Graneros del Alba in Las Condes
Bellavista district - Park of Sculptures
Museums in Santiago:
Royal Customs Building (Museum of pre-Columbian Art)
Bellas Artes (Fine Arts) of Santiago,
"Casa Colorada" of National History
``La Chascona", House of the poet Pablo Neruda
Santiago has some of the most beautifully laid out parks of any city. The locals like to think of these parks as the "pulmones" or lungs of the city. Green areas abound throughout the different sectors in the city.
Forestal Park borders the south bank of the Mapocho River, west of Plaza Baquedano and has fine sculptures located throughout it.
Metropolitan Park in the San Cristobal Hill: includes a zoo, two swimming pools, picnic areas, restaurants and Enoteca. It can be visited by car, cable car or teleferique.
Santa Lucia Hill in the heart of the city.
Balmaceda Park in the Las Condes district.
O'Higgins Park located in the district of Santiago. Amongst its
attractions is ``El Pueblito": which resembles a typical Chilean country
village. It has a nice lake which you can row a boat in, and a small rollerblade
arena.
Shopping in Santiago
Local and imported goods at reasonable prices are available in Santiago in some of the following areas:
Providencia Avenue, including chic boutiques on Suecia, General Holley, Los Leones, Ricardo Lyon streets
La Moneda area, at the intersection of Calles Ahumada and Huerfanos, off the Plaza de Armas
Shopping Centers: Parque Arauco, in the eastern area., Shopping at Alto Las Condes
Artisan Village of Los Graneros del Alba in Las Condes, the best
place to find local quality handicrafts
Santiago has a variety of good hotels around the city, from large modern American style hotels, to small european type inns. In general the quality is high in all categories.
$$$$$ Hyatt Regency - Santiago's newest hotel, the Hyatt is located uptown in the Las Condes residential area. This nineteen story circular hotel is laid out much like a resort hotel, with a large swimming pool, health club, tennis courts, spa, and shopping. a couple of restaurants and a bar as well. Location a plus if you like being out of the city. Location: 4601 Av. Kennedy, Tel: 218-1234 or in the US 1-800-233-1234
$$$$$ Carrera Hotel - Prior to the opening Hyatt Regency, this was THE hotel to stay at in town. It is an old luxury hotel situated just to the side of the Presidential Palace on the Plaza Independencia. During the coup in 1973, this was headquarters for news coverage all over the world. 325 rooms, rooftop pool with incredible city views, health club, 2 restaurants and a bar. Location a plus if you want to be right downtown in old Santiago. Location: 180 Calle Teatinos, Tel: 698-2011 or in the US 1-800-628-1600.
$$$$ Sonesta Hotel - located in the quiet neighborhood of El Golf, the Sonesta is a first class, small euro-style hotel, with large rooms, pool, spa, restaurant, and room service. Location: El Bosque Norte 0430 La Condes, Tel: 56-2-234-2200
$$$ Aloha Hotel - A small, high quality, well serviced modern hotel located on a shady residential street in the Providencia neighborhood. Includes a swimming pool with a nice restaurant by its side, and offers air conditioning (which you will need in the summer!). Calle Francisco Noguera 146 Tel: 233-2230
$$$ Hotel Alcala del Rio - Another small, high quality, modern
hotel located on a shady residential street in the Providencia neighborhood.
No swimming pool but a nice restaurant and bar area, and offers air conditioning
as well. Calle Padre Mariano 331 56-2-236-0871
[What to do][Where
to stay] [Where to eat]
Santiago's restaurants offer local cuisine based on seafood, fish, vegetables,
and meat, as well as a variety of international specialities.
$$$$ El Otro Sitio - The best Pisco Sours in town, called Catedrals. Food is a mix of local cusine with Peruvian influence. There are two locations, the original location at 53, Calle Antonia Lopez de Bello, Bellavista, has more ambiance. Another location in Las Condes is offer the same fare in a newer, more suburban setting.
$$$$ Aqui Esta Coco - In the heart of residential Providencia, this is a great place to sample Chilean seafood dishes in an old home style setting. Elegant for dinner, this restaurant can also be the power lunch spot. Calle La Concepcion 236.
$$$ El Danubio Azul - If you're craving oriental food in Santiago, this is probably the best Chinese cuisine in town. This setting is very pleasant and it's in located in a nice neighborhood on the border of Las Condes/Providencia. Calle Azul Reyes Lavalle, Las Condes.
$$ Cafe Colonia (MacIver 133 near Moneda) - great location for a cortado (Chilean cappuccino), dessert, or light lunch
$$ Cafe El Patio (Providencia) - go here for drinks in a great nighttime setting. There's food, but not highly recommended unless you like vegetarian items.
$$ Agua na Boca - decent sandwiches, good atmosphere, a place for drinks, Brazilian influence. Calle Tobalaba
$$$ La Pizza Nostra - There are 3 locations for this Italian eatery, the 2 best being on Calle Providencia, and the other on Calle Luis Thayer. This Italian restaurant serves more than pizza, in fact it has very good fresh daily pasta dishes. Providencia has outdoor an summer dining patio.
$$$ La Tasca Mediterranea - A unique Spanish restaurant in the trendy Bellavista district serving "Tapas" and drinks in a very warm old world setting. Highly recommended. Ask your hotel for directions, or go via taxi.
$$$$ El Gato Pardo - located behind Universidad Catolica in one of the remaining small pockets of Spanish colonial Santiago. Go past the small and very old church to find El Gato Pardo, it's next to another excellent place called Squadrito. Gato Pardo specializes in Peruvian foods, and is very good. They have a unique and comfortable environment.
$$$$ Squadrito - Santiago's best Northern Italian restaurant, located behind Universidad Catolica in one of the remaining small pockets of Spanish colonial Santiago. Go past the small and very old church, past El Gato Pardo.
$$$ Taj Mahal - If the urge to eat Indian is upon you, this is the best, if not only Indian restaurant in Santiago. Located on Isadora Goyanechea, north of El Bosque.
$$$ A Pinch of Pancho - American-style menu for when you get homesick for things like barbeque (e.g. ribs), good but pricey. Calle Providencia near Nuevo Lyon.
$$$$ El Metro - Probably one of the most hip, modern restaurants in town, El Metro serves French/California cuisine using local seafood, in a large art gallery environment, a very attractive space.
$$$ Restaurant 1800 - Known as "mil ochocientos", this is a British pub type eatery, serving meats and fresh fish. Warm and cozy and located on Apoquindo, near Escuela Militar.
$$ El Huerto - A very good vegetarian menu in a warm room, also has a patio area. Providencia near Ricardo Lyon.
$$ Café Taveli - Where to hang out after work, get a drink, coffee or dessert? Try this café in Providencia located next to a bookstore and CD Store. It got its fame for being the place the leftists gathered for coffee during the period of the military coup d'etat of the Allende regime.
$$$$ San Fruttuoso - Italian restaurant in Bellavista district, very good, somewhat trendy, great space, Squadrito has better food, but this is good as well.
La Epoca daily newspaper from Santiago
Rafting/Kayaking expeditions in Chile
Santiago de Chile subway system
Mapuche, the indigenous people of Chile
[What to do][Where
to stay] [Where to eat]
The southernmost city of the Chilean (lake district) is a beautiful
area, and here you can see snow-capped volcanoes tower over pristine blue
colored lakes and deep green forests. The town Puerto Montt marks the end
of the railroad and the end of the paved highway. A few dirt roads extend
part of the way south into the Aysen area, but from here, most traffic
goes by boat. A variety of coasting vessels leave Puerto Montt every day
to visit the towns and villages of Aysen, such as Chaiten, about 200km
south of Puerto Montt, Chacabuco, about 500km south of Puerto Montt and
the port for Aysen's capital and biggest town, Coyhaique.
What to do in the Lake District
Puerto Montt
Puerto Montt of one of the more important southern cities in Chile, due to its air, bus, boat, and train links to all parts of Chile. It is a major gateway to the Lake District and sits on the Golf of Reloncavi, in a setting reminiscent of the Seattle Puget Sound.
Lake many of the cities in the Lake District, Puerto Montt was settled by Germans in the mid-19th century, and this is evident in its architecture and food. Take a tour of the city, stay overnight and visit the island of Chiloe, or take the Navimag ferry service to Chilean Patagonia from Puerto Montt. All roads south in Chile end here.
Valdivia
Valdivia, named after the Spanish explorer Pedro de Valdivia, got its start in 1552 on an old Mapuche Indian site. It owes much of its style and influence to the extensive German immigration during the 19th-century. The city sits on the banks of the Rio Calle-Calle and has a population of about 100,000. Valdivia was almost destroyed by an earthquake in 1960, but much of its German architecture has been since restored. Today the city is known as a sort of cultural or artist center for Chile. A great thing to experience is Valdivia's riverside market on weekends.
Chiloe
Chiloe is a beautiful densely forested island located about an hour from Puerto Montt. You must take a ferry to the island across the Canal de Chacao, and cars are accommodated ($2.00). The island is about 100 miles long and 30 miles wide. Drive to the farthest tip, the town of Castro, to see the houses on stilts (palafitos), go to the excellent artisan market, and eat fresh seafood in one of the many restaurants on the water. If you have more time to explore, check out the National Park of Chiloe.
Pucon
Pucon is a very nice upscale lakeside resort area on the slopes of the Volcano Villarrica. It is the Chilean version of San Carlos de Bariloche, and has excellent small lakeside hotels, cafes, restaurants, and shopping. In addition to the various lake activities, and hiking in the park at Villarrica, take a taxi or car to the nearby thermal baths (Thermas de Huife), where you can stay overnight in the Chalet style hotel or just relax in the warm pools for about $6.00 It's a 30 mile drive on a dirt road.
Frutillar
Frutillar is a very beautiful resort on Lake Llanquihue, with incredible
views of the Volcano
Osorno across the lake. It is a small town of 5000 residents of German
decent, and has the best preserved German architecture in South America.
Take a stroll on the lakeside black-sand beach, rent a row boat and row
out into the lake, and then eat in one of many fine restaurants in town,
all with great views.
[What to do][Where
to stay] [Where to eat]
Where to stay in the Lake District
Puerto Montt
$$$ Grand Hotel Don Luis, Calle Urmeneta esquina Quillota Tel: 065-25-9001
Valdivia
$$$$ Hotel Pedro de Valdivia, Calle Carampangue 190 Tel: 063-212931
Pucon
$$$ Gran Hotel Pucon, Calle Clemente Holzapfel, on the lake.
Frutillar
Hotel Frutillar, Calle Philippi 1000, good lakefront location.
Chiloe
$$$ Hotel Galeon Azul, Calle Libertad 751. Ancud best hotel
$$$ Hosteria de Castro, Calle Chacabuco 202, in Castro, chalet style
with great views of lake
[What to do][Where
to stay] [Where to eat]
Where to eat in the Lake District
The restaurant scene is a little sketchy in the lake district. It is best to ask your hotel for recommendations as things change here often. Some of the more notable places are listed below. The best bet in the lake district is to stick to Chilean seafood dishes, and don't expect much in terms of atmosphere, except in Pucon or Frutillar.
Puerto Montt
$$$ Marfino Waterfront Café, Angelmo 1856, good for seafood.
$$$ Restaurant Embassy, Calle Ancud 104, good for seafood.
Valdivia
$$$ El Conquistador, Calle O'Higgins 477 on the Plaza de la Republica.
Pucon
$$$ El Conquistador, Calle O'Higgins 323, pizza, pancakes, seafood, meat.
$$$ Trattoria Mangiare, Calle Caupolican 243, Italian cuisine
Frutillar
$$$ Restaurant Hotel Frutillar, Calle Philippi 1000, good lakefront location. Also there are many good small lunch spots on the lake.
Chiloe
$$ Eat at one of the many palafitos restaurants on the lake in the town
of Castro. Brisas del Mar or Mariela are the better choices.
[What to do][Where
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Valparaíso and Viña del Mar
An excellent highway about a hundred kilometers long leads to the coast through the valleys of Curacavi and Casablanca. The countryside is beautiful and there are several typical Chilean restaurants serving good local food along the way.
Valparaiso
is Chile's main port and also the site of the Chilean Congress. The city
is next to Viña del Mar. There are beautiful views from the numerous hills
surrounding the bay of Valparaíso which have been a source of inspiration
for many Chilean artists. Valparaíso's hills are covered with multicolored
houses and mansions dating from last century. It is worth taking a walk
around the picturesque fishing coves or taking one of the old-fashioned
funiculars up to the "La Sebastiana", one of the houses of famous
Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. (Another of his houses, today a museum and filled
with his collections, is in Isla Negra, an hour from Valparaíso). As one
of the most important ports in the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso receives ships
from all over the world where they unload their cargo and load up again
with Chilean goods destined for international markets.
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[What to do][Where
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[What to do][Where
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Viña del Mar, known also as the Garden City, has over 300,000 inhabitants and is the country's main beach resort. Viña is situated next to the Port of Valparaíso and has a good selection of hotels and restaurants, a Casino, cafés, discos and shopping. Visitors can go for a ride in a traditional horse-drawn "Victoria" and see the town with its well kept gardens along the sea. For the good view of the town, take a walk out on the main pier where you will find many restaurants and cafés
[What to do][Where
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[What to do][Where
to stay] [Where to eat]
[What to do][Where
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[What to do][Where
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Chile has some world class ski resorts, that can be reached by bus or car, and are located less that an hour's drive from Santiago. Farellones-EI Colorado, La Parva and Valle Nevado are all situated on the slopes of the Andean mountains. From June to October these resorts, as well as others in Chile, are visited by Chilean, Argentinean, and other foreign skiers, because of the excellent slopes, good snow, nice weather and modern infrastructure. Also, 145 kilometers northeast of Santiago is Portillo with its traditional hotel of international fame, overlooking the Del Inca Lagoon. The links below will take you directly to the slopes in Chile;
