São Paulo was founded by the Jesuits in 1554, on a plateau 2,493 feet (760 meters) above sea level, but only 45 miles (72 km) from the coast, as a mission center ( Patio do Colegio - as the area today is called) for early settlers and the Indians who inhabited the area. For a long time it remained a small town. Around 1850 it began to grow and became richer thanks to the highly productive coffee plantations in the state. Later on, the income from coffee exports and the increasing population provided capital and manpower for the foundation of an industrial base. Today there are over 20,000 industrial plants of all types and sizes concentrated in the city and the surrounding municipalities employing 600,000 workers. São Paulo is also the major financial center in Brazil with nearly 2,000 banking agencies.

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What to do in San Paulo

>Parque Ibirapuera

An oasis in the midst of the concrete jungle of Sao Paulo, Ibirapuera Park stands out like a green thumb. You'll see a myriad of shapes and sizes of joggers on the 1,500 meter jogging track designated for "cooper," which has become slang for jogging in Portuguese. The park, which was designed by Oscar Niemeyer--the same architect who designed Brasilia--also has four lakes, 13 multiple-use sports courts, huge expanses of grass and a wonderful plant nursery. The Japanese population of Sao Paulo is well represented by a beautiful Japanese pavilion, constructed in the park in 1954, that includes an exact replica of the Katura Imperial Palace in Japan. A small fee must be paid to gain access to this place, which is surrounded by Japanese gardens. Of special note is the small lake, with multi-colored carp leisurely swimming in a harmonious display of random beauty. The park also contains the Planetarium, the Aeronautic Museum, the Folkloric Museum and the Modern Art Museum. Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral. Ibirapuera, Zona Sul. Tel. 574-5177.

Parque Zoologico de Sao Paulo (Sao Paulo Zoological Park)

You can walk over four kilometers of trails as you wind around one of the best zoos in South America this interesting place. With a collection of over 2,700 animals, there is something for everyone. Of particular note are the monkey islands that have been set up in the middle of a small lake. Here you can see the animals at play outside, without any constraints except the water. Also interesting is the sheer number of different species of local flora that has also found its way, seemingly unplanned, into the zoo. Feeding time at the hyena cage is especially eerie, as the beasts laugh and howl in anticipation. The zoo is located about half an hour out of city center. Arrange for a round-trip taxi ride. Open daily 9am-5pm. US$3.50 for 12 years and older. 4241 Avenida Doutor Miguel Estefano. Agua Funda, Zona Sul. Tel. 276-0811.

Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo (Sao Paulo Museum of Art)

Inaugurated in 1968 by Queen Elizabeth II, this museum is arguably one of the finest museums in Latin America, containing masterpieces by world-famous western artists, especially French impressionists and Brazilian artists. Highlights include the sculptures by Rodin and Degas, and masterpieces by Boticelli, Picasso, Raphael, Rubens, Rembrandt and many others. Try not to miss the sadly under-represented Brazilian artists, especially works by Candido Portinaris. It's best to arrive at the museum as early as possible, when the light is better. Don't miss the temporary exhibitions in the basement where occasionally a real gem from the museum's huge collection is dusted off and brought out to be admired. The museum is located downtown in an architecturally interesting building, that was listed by Condephaat in 1982. The rectangular main building is supported by two massive pillars 256 feet (78 meters) apart, quite visually stunning. Tue-Fri 1-5pm; Sat-Sun 2-6pm. 1578 Avenida Paulista. Cerqueira Cesar, Zona Sul. Tel. 251-5644.

Rio's Carnaval has many faces, and lasts a lot longer than the four pre-Lenten days associated with Carnaval. Starting in early January, each neighborhood has its particular samba school that swings and sways down the streets, open to all to follow along. In addition, there are various Carnaval costume balls happening throughout February. These range from the racy to the very raunchy and should be approached with a sense of humor and adventure. Finally, the Sambodromo Carnaval parade takes place Feb 17-20. This spectacular spectator event features multiple samba schools competing against each other in an overwhelming mix of music and color.

One of the best parades of the Carnaval is the most beautiful "Desfile das Escolas de Samba". In English it translates to Samba School Exhibition. Another famous one is the Banda de Ipanema. It's fabulous and you mustn't miss it. Buy the tickets in advance from your travel agency in your home city. The celebrations are held in nightclubs and football clubs like Flamengo or Fluminense. Also in some cities there's the street carnival where people go to the streets and celebrate.

The CARNAVAL as it is spelled in Brazil(not carnival-that's sort of like a fair) is officially only three days long, but usually last anywhere from a week to two months. Rio is definitely the best place to be for Carnaval, though some Brazilians prefer a smaller less riotous celebration in another city, usually in the Northeast of the country.

Carnaval in Rio is marked by general glee, excitement, sensuality, gayness, and a genuine carefree spirit, however it is possible to sum up the city's events into three categories, Desfiles (parades), Bailes (dances), and Music Festivals.

DESFILE DAS ESCOLAS DE SAMBA DO GRUPO

This is basically the big parade in the "Sambodromo"(a street constructed just for this event) in which the top samba schools(or groups of usually 1000-3000 people) parade their themes with beautiful costumes, headgear, floats and a special song written just for the event that usually describes the theme. Each school has about 75 minutes to parade down this avenue, while judges in various categories judge each school. The winner is announced on Quarta-Feira de cinzas(ash Wednesday). This event is perhaps what most people around the world think of when they think of the Brazilian carnaval celebration. BAILES- These are small balls (dances,masquerade balls) that usually take place in various social clubs around the city. They are usually overcrowded rooms where people where very little clothing and bump and grind to sexy samba, rock and other songs. It is not unusual to encounter couples(of any sexual orientation) virtually "getting it on" in the middle of the dance floor, so these are definitely NOT for the squemish. I would strongly advise against women going to these balls alone, Brazilian men are very polite and charming, but they can also be very aggressive and violent if they don't get what they want. And mix that with a lot of free-flowing alcohol and you know what the turn out could be. Usually it's OK for open-minded couples who want to experience something new and exciting..and very different.

Baile do Vermelho e Preto

Usually at the Club de Regatas do Flamengo, a sports club alongside a huge lake. Known for its bawdiness and sex games. Enter at own risk. Black and red must be worn, the Flamengo team colors.

Baile do Champagne

Usually the first official ball of Carnaval this attracts a more upper class crowd than other balls, however this doesn't mean that it'll be less bawdy, but probably a less little dangerous. A warning: NEVER WEAR ANY VALUABLES OR JEWELRY OF ANY KIND TO THESE EVENTS, unless you want it ripped off and you want to get injured in the process. The main law for safety in Rio is....DON'T WEAR ANYTHING VALUABLE, and TRY NOT TO LOOK LIKE A TOURIST.

Grande Gala Gay

A ball in honor of gay men and women, actually it's the most talked about event of Carnaval after the samba parade. Usually a good place for women for they are seldom molested or bothered. Men however take note...what may seem like a perfectly attractive and sexy woman that flirting with you might actually be a "travesti", one of Rio's multicolored transvestites. So keep an eye out, and keep an open mind!! In Rio during Carnaval nothing is like it seems!

Sculptors of the Wind Music Festival

Four of the best "bandas" in the country show up for this traditional music festival. A "banda" is a small orchestra that uses only wind instruments to create music. Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil. Teatro 2. 66 Primeiro de Marco. Centro. Tel. 216-0237.

Aquarela do Rio Music Festival

Leme beach, the next-door neighbor of Copacabana beach--plays host to various popular Brazilian music (MPB) stars, who light up the beach with music and more. This event, sponsored by the city government, attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, who come to hang out on the beach, drink some chopp (ice-cold beer) and catch some of Brazil's rising talent in a free concert. Keep an eye and ear tuned for music to find your way there or ask around.

A Word about Safety

Carnaval is a more dangerous time for tourists. The holiday attracts tons of foreigners who usually have a lot of dollars or foreign currency which attract thieves. Despite what many foreigners may hear, most of the violence that occurs in Rio is not due to drugs, alcohol or gangs. Usually someone is shot or killed because he/she refused to give up their possessions to a mugger or thief.

Have a safe trip and thank you for visiting Brazil!